Tataki Kyuri; smashed cucumber pickles

After trying these smashed cucumber pickles from Masaharu Morimoto's book, I knew they were a perfect dish for the home cook. Spicy, salty, and umami cucumber pickles that are like a salad you can eat as a side or just throw over some plain rice.

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Japanese Smashed Cucumber Pickles

Author: Ethan Chlebowski

Prep time: 15 MinInactive time: 24 HourTotal time: 24 H & 15 M

This recipe for Tataki Kyuri or Smashed Cucumber Pickles has been adapted from Chef Morimoto's book Mastering the Art of Japanese Home Cooking. Due to the short time in the salt brine these cucumbers are not very sour and instead I would say they resemble closer to a cucumber salad heavy on the umami flavor. Also do not skip toasting the sesame seeds, it takes the cucumbers from 'very good' to 'oh shit I just ate the entire bowl.'

Ingredients

• about 500 g crunchy, narrow cucumbers, such as Japanese, Persian, Kirby, or Hot House
• 1 kg water
• 30 g kosher salt
• 28 g piece (about 2 inches) peeled ginger, very thinly sliced
• 10 g kombu (about 4-inch piece of dried kelp) - substitute: MSG or miso paste
• A spoonful of Asian dried red chile flakes or 2 whole chiles (optional)
• 20 g (about 2-3 tbps) sesame seeds
• 18 g (about 1 tbsp) soy sauce

Other flavoring addition ideas:

• Garlic
• Scallion
• Furikake seasoning

Instructions

24 hour brine method

1. Wash and dry the exterior of each cucumber then cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Place the cucumber cut side down on the cutting board and using the flat of the blade smash the cucumber so the skin cracks and they are well bruised but still hold its shape. Cut the bruised halves into roughly 2 inch long pieces. Prep the other ingredients.
2. Set a large container over a scale and add 1 kg of water along with 30 grams of salt. Stir until the salt dissolved then add the cucumbers, kombu, dried chiles, and sliced ginger. Place plastic wrap over the container and press it against the surface of the vegetables to keep them submerged. Cover with the lid and refrigerate for 24 to 72 hours.
3. When ready to serve, put the sesame seeds in a pan set over medium heat, and toast, stirring and tossing frequently. The seeds should get darker, but be careful not to burn them!
4. Transfer the toasted seeds to a mortar and pestle and let cool for a minute or two before grinding into a coarse powder, the smells will be intoxicating. Combine the powder in a bowl with the soy sauce and mix.
5. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out the brined cucumbers and add it to the bowl with the sesame seed and soy sauce mixture. Toss together and serve. Note: Use the leftover brine for meats or add another batch of smashed cucumbers.
6. The dressed cucumbers are best eaten within 3-4 days.

10 minute weeknight version

1. Note: for the 10-minute version, use much fewer chile flakes and about half the ginger, minced since it will be mixed right in the same bowl.
2. Wash and dry the exterior of each cucumber then cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Place the cucumber cut side down on the cutting board and using the flat of the blade smash the cucumber so the skin cracks and they are well bruised but still hold its shape. Cut the bruised halves into roughly 2 inch long pieces.
3. Set a bowl over a scale and add the cucumbers. Note the weight down and add 1.5% salt and .5% MSG (Ex. 400 g cucumber = 6 grams of salt + 2 grams of MSG). Mix together and set aside.
4. Prep the ginger by peeling and mincing it. Add the ginger to a bowl along with the red chile flake. Toast the sesame seeds in a pan before letting them cool and grinding them into a powder with a mortar and pestle. Add the sesame seed and soy sauce to the bowl and mix everything together.
5. Once done, drain off the excess water from the cucumbers and mix with the other ingredients. Toss well and serve!

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